Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
imported post

Hey guys, couple questions. Rebuilt the carbs ( made sure every thing was squeeky clean, and spent hours making sure the float levels were at .30") My diaphrams and main needles were shot ( sitting withold gas in the carbs ) I installed the diaphrams and needles from the set of carbs i got from dean ( same carb number #35) Now it has a searching rough idle and it actually doesnt really want to idle at all unless the pilot jets are screwed all the way closed! took it for a ride and above 1500 to 2000 rpm doesnt run all that bad but kinda misses and breaks up on the high end. coasting to a stop it just wants to die. the plugs couldnt get any blacker! all the jets including the pilots are new and new float needles and seats. any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated. Oh yeah, the second question.... Is a 1984 1200cc interstate really worth all this? I mean Ive done nothing but pour money and time into this bike and my wife is starting to look at me funny as she says " your,e not going to the garage to work on the goldwing AGAIN are you! thanks, MIKE
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
137 Posts
imported post

Sounds like you got a air passage blocked up some where in the carbs... At least on my 83 there is two air jet I've seen in the top under the the main needle slide.There is also several hole usually in the main jet for air as well... (Not certain) It sounds like a pilot jet/air problem to me...

Are all the plugs black?

As for the working again on the GW... Don't feel bad I've only owned mine for about a week and that is all I've done is tear it apart and fix things on it...:realshocked:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
imported post

Mike, Don't throw in the towel yet!! I felt like I owned a Harley for a while. Worked on it all week so I could ride it on the weekend! After going over the bike good, I feel good about going on trips farther from home without fear of a breakdown.
As for the black plugs, are they all black? The pilot screws have tiny O rings on them. Did they get checked? It might explain needing to screw the screws in all the way.
It sounds like whatever is wrong with one is wrong with all, if all 4 plugs are black.
GOOD LUCK!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
imported post

Thanks for the replys, Yes all the plugs are black and all the pilot screws are turned all the way in. I made sure all the old orings on the pilot screws came out and the new ones had oring washer and spring as they went in. Looks like i will be spending another two days removing and dissasembling. Just not sure what im looking for.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
imported post

Mike, Somewhere I have read that the jets can be swapped around and screwed into the wrong places, and look correct. You might double check while the float bowels are off.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
147 Posts
imported post

I just helped a guy rebuild carbs and we had the same results. Disassembled carbs three times to check all o rings, etc. No improvement. Then I compared old parts to new and found that the parts guy had given us the wrong new pilot screws - completely different shape on the end. Put the old screws back in and bike ran perfect. Sometimes when you mix old and new (and wrong parts) you need to go back and look at what you've got. The last GL1000 I did I mixed and matched parts from two bone stock GL1000 carb sets and could never get it right. Only when I went back to one orig set would it run right. I know that shouldn't be, but......
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
imported post

well I pulled the carbs off and started by attaching a funnel to the fuel manifold feed hose then filled er up and let it set for 20/30 min. nothing leaked anywhere but I dont know if the head pressure from a funnel is enough to check the float valves or not maybe someone has an idea? Next I checked the pilot jets and they are the same dia, lenght, profile as the old ones. I checked the slides and they are the same also. the main jets and the slow jets are the same number as the ones in the carbs from dean only difference is the needles from the carbs i got from dean are #20f and my old needles are #1cg. they are the same lenght and dia. at the base and and at the tip. the only difference i can see is a slight variation in the taper. I dont know if that could cause the mains to feed enough to have to completely close the pilots at idle. the other thing I found was the carb set from my bike did not have a spring underneath the slow air cut off valve holding the plunger diaphram down but the one from the carbs from dean does. I assume it should have been there but it wasnt. Could that cause that much of a rich condition at idle? other than that I cant see anything else wrong. the air passages are all clean ( Ive run enough carb cleaner and air through them to inflate the hindenburg) Ive rechecked the float hieght and the jets are all in their proper location. at this point I guess I,m as I say Lost again! thanks Mike.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

dburnash wrote:
well I pulled the carbs off and started by attaching a funnel to the fuel manifold feed hose then filled er up and let it set for 20/30 min. nothing leaked anywhere but I dont know if the head pressure from a funnel is enough to check the float valves or not maybe someone has an idea? Next I checked the pilot jets and they are the same dia, lenght, profile as the old ones. I checked the slides and they are the same also. the main jets and the slow jets are the same number as the ones in the carbs from dean only difference is the needles from the carbs i got from dean are #20f and my old needles are #1cg. they are the same lenght and dia. at the base and and at the tip. the only difference i can see is a slight variation in the taper. I dont know if that could cause the mains to feed enough to have to completely close the pilots at idle. the other thing I found was the carb set from my bike did not have a spring underneath the slow air cut off valve holding the plunger diaphram down but the one from the carbs from dean does. I assume it should have been there but it wasnt. Could that cause that much of a rich condition at idle? other than that I cant see anything else wrong. the air passages are all clean ( Ive run enough carb cleaner and air through them to inflate the hindenburg) Ive rechecked the float hieght and the jets are all in their proper location. at this point I guess I,m as I say Lost again! thanks Mike.

dburnash, your main jets have NO effect on the idle & under 1/4 throttle operation. The pilot jets, pilot jet air bleed system & pilot needles are the main control for idle to 1/8 throttle, the large upper shank of the needle has a big effect on just off idle- 1/8 to 1/4 throttle as well as the slide cut out area..

On your air cut-off? If your air cut off system is NOT functioning correctly & not letting air through to the pilot jet air bleeds at idle & low throttle openings it will run very rich. That air cut-off is in the carb system to shut off the bleed air to the pilot jets at high vacuum conditions (like dropped throttle over-run- basically coast) to richen the mixture to eliminate exhaust popping on decel. MAKE SURE that air cut-off system is allowing air to flow at most basic running conditions & only closing off the air at very high vacuum conditions.

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
imported post

Thanks twisty. I,m hoping the missing spring under the diaphram cap on the slow air cut off is the culprit. I assume that the spring must hold the diaphram open at low speed and pull it closed under high vacume on decel. makes sense now that you explain it. By the way Does anyone have a honda shop manual that they could check the float height on a 1984 1200 interstate. My clymer says .30" or 7.5 MM but wanted to be sure before I shoe horn them in again.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

dburnash wrote:
Thanks twisty. I,m hoping the missing spring under the diaphragm cap on the slow air cut off is the culprit. I assume that the spring must hold the diaphragm open at low speed and pull it closed under high vacuum on decel. makes sense now that you explain it. By the way Does anyone have a honda shop manual that they could check the float height on a 1984 1200 interstate. My clymer says .30" or 7.5 MM but wanted to be sure before I shoe horn them in again.

Dburnash, I show the same (7.5mm/.300") for the US 49 state bikes. I also show (6.8mm/.270" for the California emission bikes. Don't compress the needle springs (if you have them) while setting the float height, just gently turn the carb until the needle gently seats & measure there.



I assume that the spring must hold the diaphragm open at low speed and pull it closed under high vacuum on decel.

That spring should hold the valve open for normal running operation & high engine vacuum (around 16+ inches) should close that valve on decel to close off the bleed air to the pilot circuits.

Twisty
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
150 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
imported post

Many thanks twisty. installed the missing spring in the slow cut off valve, rechecked the floats, and reinstalled the carbs. fired right up. adjusted the pilots with the color tune ( love that tool!) and she idles like a sewwing machine now. will get a chance to ride it this weekend and see how it runs with clean carbs and a functioning slow air valve. the guy I bough it from (ebay) said it had a slight miss at cold start but but ran fine after that. I wish he could of stood in the corner facing the wall while wearing a big pointed white hat for 20 hours while i worked on these carbs! thanks again to all who helped out, Mike
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,491 Posts
imported post

dburnash wrote:
Many thanks twisty. installed the missing spring in the slow cut off valve, rechecked the floats, and reinstalled the carbs. fired right up. adjusted the pilots with the color tune ( love that tool!) and she idles like a sewwing machine now. will get a chance to ride it this weekend and see how it runs with clean carbs and a functioning slow air valve. the guy I bough it from (ebay) said it had a slight miss at cold start but but ran fine after that. I wish he could of stood in the corner facing the wall while wearing a big pointed white hat for 20 hours while i worked on these carbs! thanks again to all who helped out, Mike
You're welcome, Mike...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,871 Posts
imported post

Many thanks twisty
Way to steal the show again Twisty......I was about to tell him all that!!!!:hovering: I learned all that after I trashed my snowblower cause it wouldn't run right
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
537 Posts
imported post

dburnash Excuse me, but please tell me what a color tune is. Alski
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top