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I use it in my ford f150 4wd v8, and in the gl1500 works great for both.

 

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I use Delo 400 in all my Chevy V8's..Had great luck with it..

 

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This every 3000 is marketing talk by the oil change companies. Look at the owners manual. Many state every 6000 miles or more. My van says 8000 miles, and my old Toyota truck was like 10K miles.

To me, 5000 miles is a good interval. Oil and engines have improved a lot since the 70's. I do 3K on my bike however, since it is older, and the clutch has to slosh around in the oil.

 

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I ran Delo 400 in my bikes and used the 5,000 mile as a goal post. Once I let it go 7,000 miles because I was on a long trip.

 

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ITs a yes for me . I use Delo in my cars and trucks and the bike .

 

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Silicon Sam wrote:

This every 3000 is marketing talk by the oil change companies. Look at the owners manual. Many state every 6000 miles or more. My van says 8000 miles, and my old Toyota truck was like 10K miles.

To me, 5000 miles is a good interval. Oil and engines have improved a lot since the 70's. I do 3K on my bike however, since it is older, and the clutch has to slosh around in the oil.

My 07 Suburban has one of those idiot gages that tells you percentage of oil life left. I'm not sure if it's smart enough to figure out driving habits such as city vs highway or not. I usually goes about 8K before it says I need to change the oil, but I do rack up a lot of highway miles. I asked the service manager if I followed this and there was a problem, would it still be covered under warranty and the answer was yes. I try to change it at 5k.

I agree with Sam, the bike goes 3k and then gets a new dose.

 

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OIL !!! :headbanger:

Let's see... what is a bad oil? Or, what is a "good quality" oil?

Anyone ever purposely bought "bad" oil and hadbad luck?

One main observation I have noticed over the decades is the crud (paraffin) does not build up under the valve covers like in the70s & 80s. I am talking about filling coffee cups full of crud. But nowadays, I do not know howcheap oils perform. Oh... what is a "cheap" oil?

I wonder if a regular 10k oil change today is better than a 3k oil change in the 70s. I think yes. Anyopinions?

:coollep:

 

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Sam is right about the 3000 mile thing, pure bull in most cases. If you only drive short trips, less than 20 minutes then it may need it at 3000 but if like me the shortest trip you drive is 32 miles to work then 5000 won't hurt anything.The longer it runs before being allowed to cool off the longer you can go between changes.
Basically the maintenance minder systems take in to account the miles driven with the engine at less than operating temperature and subtracts those miles from the base change interval.

 

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After my brothers BMW 760? went out of warranty, he switched to rotella 15-40. He runs 5000 mile intervals. Has been running it 3 years now, no difference. I run super tech oil and have ran that up to 5000....... although I don't like to go more than 3500 miles.

 

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I may take a tounge lashing here but in all my vehicles and really anything with a motor I run Royal Purple and have always changed the bikes oil around 4k+/- in my 92 volvo with over 525k I always change it around 10k and have done that since 90k when I bought it sometimes even just changing the filter and adding a quart of new back to the old when times where on th lean side. But thats me and i have decent luck with machines except my computer.

 

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Light gold in color and fairly slick works for me...

 

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I use Delo in everything except my jeep where I use Mobil 1. Don't ask me why cause I don't know the answer to that. Just what I've always done. Why change.

 

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DELO 400 - Yes.

 

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exavid wrote:

DELO 400 - Yes.

OK.....yes I'm wrong to think that way (added protection and longer life), or yes I can use it in my truck?

 

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Yep, use it in your truck. It won't know the difference.

It might even learn to love it :cheeky1:

 

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I change oil in my rigs every 2500 miles.. Always have always will..But I have yet to wear out an engine..Sold my 87 Honda Accord with 500000 miles on it and it had never had a wrench on the engine other than to change the clutch..Had the same water pump..Still see that car running up and down the road..Maintance is key to long life..I don't think any of us will hear our stuff yelling about to much maintance..

 

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How about Synthec?
Does anybody use that?

 

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tommy421960 wrote:

How about Synthec?
Does anybody use that?

Sure, lots of folks do...two things to think about though...1.> Not cost effective if the motor leaks oil or otherwise uses a lot of oil, and 2.> Not cost effective if you feel the need to change oil more often than 5k miles or once per year or so, whichever comes first...

Synthetic lubes are being used in more and more new vehicles, by more & more manufacturers over time, than ever before...and by world military in severe arctic and desert service. Of course, they are buying it with our tax dollars, so MONEY is likely no object!!!

 

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Remember that city running and short journeys are the hardest on oil in whatever vehicle you are using. If you use your car or bike for longer trips the engine will get to it's operating temperature and will burn off any condensation that may have gathered. Short journeys are the death of oil as the engine doesn't get hot enough. Often the thermostat has barely opened and the engine is shut off. Condensation builds up and combined with the condensation and you have sludge. That's why manufacturers suggest 3000miles/5000klick oil change intervals. I remember when the Honda CX500's came out first. The Irish police (Gardai, sorry no fada) bought them as recommended oil change was every 7,000 miles, each one needed to be rebuilt.

 

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HogansWing wrote:

My 07 Suburban has one of those idiot gages that tells you percentage of oil life left. I'm not sure if it's smart enough to figure out driving habits such as city vs highway or not. I usually goes about 8K before it says I need to change the oil, but I do rack up a lot of highway miles. I asked the service manager if I followed this and there was a problem, would it still be covered under warranty and the answer was yes. I try to change it at 5k.

I agree with Sam, the bike goes 3k and then gets a new dose.

The idiot gauges seem to work as far as measuring percentage of oil life. I work for a GM dealership and have a customer to does a lot of highway miles. He's gone as far as 10K before it told him to change the oil.

I drive mostly city and mine tells me to change at around 6500 miles.



Your service manager is right. It's covered under warranty. The only thing they ask is that low mile drivers change their oil at least every 6 months. :waving:

 

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wrongway wrote:

HogansWing wrote:

My 07 Suburban has one of those idiot gages that tells you percentage of oil life left. I'm not sure if it's smart enough to figure out driving habits such as city vs highway or not. I usually goes about 8K before it says I need to change the oil, but I do rack up a lot of highway miles. I asked the service manager if I followed this and there was a problem, would it still be covered under warranty and the answer was yes. I try to change it at 5k.

I agree with Sam, the bike goes 3k and then gets a new dose.

The idiot gauges seem to work as far as measuring percentage of oil life. I work for a GM dealership and have a customer to does a lot of highway miles. He's gone as far as 10K before it told him to change the oil.

I drive mostly city and mine tells me to change at around 6500 miles.



Your service manager is right. It's covered under warranty. The only thing they ask is that low mile drivers change their oil at least every 6 months. :waving:

I still like to change my oil at 5k even though they said they would warranty it. It's long after the warranty that I'm worried about whenrepairs arepaid for out of my pocket.

I got into another discussion with my new Audi mechanic this afternoon. I weened myself off the Audi dealership to find a hole in the wall shop that only services Audi and VW's. I was in there for a brake job on the TT and asked him to change the oil while there. He asked if I wanted synthetic oil:shock: Here goes the oil thing again. What do you recommend I asked. He said that his 07 came with syn in it and he believes that my 01 did too. He said that even if it didn't, being a turbo he strongly recommended it. I went with the synthetic.

Now I know we all banter about oilsfor our bikes, but what is the concensus on turbo's - regular dino or synthetic?

My Suburban and Ranger get dino, the Wing gets Rotella T synthetic and I get pure virgin olive oil.

 

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the turbo bearings might give you better service with syn oil, but Dodge says dino oil will do just fine in the Cummins engines, as do the Cummins engineers.

I'm using Delo 400 15w40 in my Dodge Cummins and the bike when it was rolling.

 

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AZgl1500 wrote:

the turbo bearings might give you better service with syn oil, but Dodge says dino oil will do just fine in the Cummins engines, as do the Cummins engineers.

I'm using Delo 400 15w40 in my Dodge Cummins and the bike when it was rolling.

There's quite a bit of difference in the operating temperatures of diesel and gasoline turbochargers. Diesel exhausts are quite a bit lower. When my Cummins powered Dodge reached 100,000 miles I got a turbo rebuild kit from Chrysler ($80) and tore my turbo down. I was suprised to see that there was no measurable wear on the moving parts and bearings. I've seen at least one gasoline engine with less mileage on it that had a turbo that needed replacement. Replacement because a lot of them aren't designed for repair. My guess is that it might be more important for vehicles with turbo boosted gas engines to use synthetic oil than diesels. Synthetic oil may have a higher temperature tolerance before it burns.

 

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In 1978 I bought a 78 honda accord that the dealer's wife had used around town for about 400miles. I sold it in 1985 with 327,000 miles on it. I had changed the oil/filter every 20k to 30k using oil and filters from K Mart brand and later Wal Mart brand. I changed the plugs twice. It always passed smog and ran like a champ. Not sure what the big fuss is over oils and filters. Most engines don't care.

 

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exavid wrote:

When my Cummins powered Dodge reached 100,000 miles I got a turbo rebuild kit from Chrysler ($80) and tore my turbo down. I was suprised to see that there was no measurable wear on the moving parts and bearings.

That doesn't really surprise me. I am a member of the TDR forum (Turbo Diesel Register) which is devoted to the Dodge Cummins products. Rarely ever hear of a turbo failure.

Most all of them that have been replaced are by the guys who just "have to have" something that goes faster/harder than the factory equipped truck.

My truck is a '98 dually 4x4 factory stock mostly and at 136,000 miles the turbo sings a pretty song. I just follow the Cummins admonishment about letting the engine idle 3 minutes or cools below 350*F EGT, or as you are approaching your stop, keep the boost gauge below 3-5#.

That's not hard on my truck. Even at idle, it will cruise at 35 mph without touching the throttle. :cooldevil: (I changed out the torque converter for one that locks up at 800 rpm)