Pretty straight forward, You need the 12 volts on the small wire with the key on and the big wire has got to send power to the battery. Of course the alternator has to turn. How about the dogbone fuse? Is it OK? They can look good them fall apart in your hands.

If the alternator is good and you have power at the little wire I suspect there is an issue between the big stud on the alternator and the battery. If you put a voltmeter on the stud with the engine running you should see 214 volts or so. If there is an issue with the big wire to battery 16 or 17 volts is likely at the big stud..

 

At the alternator stud and battery post its the same, 11-12 volts. Never changes even at higher rpm. Assuming doggone fuse is glass fuse in plastic case by battery, its ok. I feel it has to be alternator.

 

Could it be possible yoiu have a bad battery?
gumbyredd

 

Battery was purchased in April, but also had it checked. Also pulled fuses 1 at a time while it was running to check for a short

 

Is there more than 1 place the small wire could be connected to? Not knowing what alternator you have it's impossible to know where it should go.

 

Yes, there are 2 places. I'm not sure they are right, was put on by previous owner. He said alternator was from 90 geo metro 3 cylinder. He also had charging issues

 

Like this?

 

Yes, but light side is not hooked up

 

Actually a little different, I'm at work but had a picture on phone. White wire is hooked up

 

The light is for a car that quit charging. Most with motorcycles do not use it. Just the fat wire and skinny wire from the ignition switch. It might be marked as terminal #2 to the ignition.

 

On some the light is necessary for it to work. Easy to check, connect a test light to the battery + then touch it to the open terminal on the alternator. If the engine is stopped it should light then go off when the engine is running.

 

Thanks, I will check it in the morning.

 

Without the light in circuit you find you need to rev the engine before charging starts, as well as showing no charge the power from the light also helps with increasing the residual magnetism in the rotor to start charging earlier

 

On some the light is necessary for it to work. Easy to check, connect a test light to the battery + then touch it to the open terminal on the alternator. If the engine is stopped it should light then go off when the engine is running.

I did not know that.

 

Hi, a few years back I took automotive electrical school in Nevada just to refresh my memory and learn some new things, About auto zone , problem is you can bring some electrical problem in and it tested ok 😳 not happening. you’re alternator probably is the problem , auto zone’s wannabe mechanic’s know nothing when it comes to electrical believe that, if can fully charge the battery and then do a load test just on the battery doesn’t need to be in the car and you’ll find out in a matter of seconds, 👍🏽

 

Thanks, I took it back up to autozone, this time it tested bad

 

after you get everything working. you might change out the fuse i bought in-line frse holders on line and soldered them
, to replace the old fuses. they make a 50 amp too. that way if you have a problem they are easily replaced.

 

after you get everything working. you might change out the fuse i bought in-line frse holders on line and soldered them
, to replace the old fuses. they make a 50 amp too. that way if you have a problem they are easily replaced.

Thanks, will do