Steve Saunders Goldwing Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

Dielectric Grease

4.4K views 24 replies 21 participants last post by  voecks  
#1 ·
imported post

Dielectric grease by definition is grease that is also an insulator. An insulator is a non conductor.

Grease: lubricates, keeps oxygen away and is messy.

An insulator insulates or is non-conducting at various voltages, but at the common voltage range of 10-15 VDC most grease is an insulator.

Manufacturers use dielectric grease because the machine is new and generally has a warranty time limit and this warranty fits nicely into the time limit of grease and things electrical. It is doubtful that warranty work will be done to electrical things for the first 3-5 years. But after that time period electrical devices, wires, contacts and contactors, motors, relays can break down.

When the warranty time is gone you as the customer pay. Work on electrical things can take a lot of time to repair, but it is all chargeable hours. So manufacturers really don’t want to see your machine during warranty.

Time passes and electrical things can wear and break down. So most people via misrepresentation, lack of knowledge and lack of skill choose to grease up connections to “Save” time repairs and make them water tight.

But the use of these greases when used wrongly can make a mess out of the job especially when troubleshooting because too many people actually smear this grease on the components before they are attached. Remember that this grease is a non conductor and when placed between conducting members this non conductor can make a wire connection stop the movement of electrons. It may even cause the conductor to act like a semi-conductor. Now you have to troubleshoot the problem.

During any diagnoses the dielectric grease must be wiped off the components and the component device made clean. I strongly suggest if you are not an expert dielectric grease applicator…do not use it. If you have older bikes make the electrical system a part of your routine maintenance. That means every other year you’re going to have to spend a day or two cleaning, tightening and verifying all electrical devices. With no grease your next maintenance check will be easy, since you don’t need to wipe things clean of grease.

But if you have a bad location that should be protected by dielectric grease use it with caution and expertise. Make up the joint, that is clean and tight and then verify that this joint works. Once tested and found OK, then wipe dielectric grease over it in a complete sealed cocoon. If it is a bad location use shrink wrap that is filled with dielectric grease but be careful not to get any grease on the areas that conduct electricity.

An insulator will increase the resistance and cause electron flow problems. DC flow is at a somewhat constant single direction and has a tendency to crowd the center of a conductor. A 12 V DC circuit is easily interrupted by dielectric grease. Do not grease up the battery connections. You are better off maintaining the battery and the cables and keeping then clean and tight every 3-4 months. You do battery checks…don’t you.


It's your choice, use it with caution or don't use it and do maintenance.


The bike has wearing parts, you use oil and grease to help slow down the wear. If you use dielectric grease at least learn why and how.
 
#4 ·
imported post

You would be surprised how many no starts I've seen over the years due to greased up batt terminals or non working modules with greased up connectors. Keeps me working so keep on doing it.:dance:
 
Save
#5 ·
imported post

I assume that overdue whatever on your bike is an issue. In case of electrical contacts the contacts usually clean themselves while connected. Just look on them without the cover - you will see the scrub marks. If you don't see them you might see the problem of your electrical issue - or you have round connectors where it's not that easy to see them.

Just put some paint on an unused connector, put them together and look where the paint then is.

However, in regular conditions it's important to make sure that your connection can't keep any water. Don't try to get it water proof (unless you use heat shrinking tape (sp?) *with* glue in it). Let always a hole to let the water out.

greetings kai
 
#6 ·
imported post

I have used it for years on battery terminals and other connections which are prone to corrode and have never yet had a problem or a corroded battery terminal. Honda had us pump some connectors full of it that they had failed to get enough in at the factory, do you suppose they were wanting the connections to fail?
 
Save
#7 ·
imported post

I agree. Dialectric grease is fine for use on some connectors if they are new and in perfect shape. In addition I believe it can cause pre-mature failure of connectors because it is an insulator and will in fact trap some heat. The usual suspect connectors such as the stator connections on a GL1200 were poorly designed to begin with and are now approaching 25 years or older. These connections for one reason or another have high resistance and the grease-in my opinion worsens this condition. If the connector/wiring and it's ampacity were designed well they wouldn't be such a common problem.
Again I don't feel the grease itself is to blame initially but rather the poorly designed connectors. Good connector greased no problem. Bad or problematic connector pitch the grease and break out the solder and heat shrink!
 
Save
#8 ·
imported post

Most people might think that putting grease on an electrical connection would stop the flow of electricity - that insulation stuff they talked about in Junior High Science class, but this slightly translucent white silicone dielectric compound actually enhances the flow of electricity by reducing corrosion. Corrosion acts as an insulator, and it eats away the material needed to complete a good electrical connection. Connections prone to corrosion are ones that can be subjected to salt, dirt, or ones that electricity flows through. So it might just stand to reason that those are ones where some dielectric grease could help them lead a longer and more effective life.
 
#9 ·
imported post

For me and mine -- Dielectric grease is DIELECTRIC and is not used on the surface of connections. If a connector required grease packing (very few do) they may see organic or lithium based products (something a solvent can later clean for easy diagnosis)



However, many dielectric greases are Silicone-based and, as such, have exellent thermal and aging properties. So "silicone-based" greases and oils are used on connector bodies and seals (nice to know that they'll open again later).



Where I Wish to make a good metal-to-metal contact in any hostile conditions (exposed to environment, or dissimilar metals), I employOx-Guard, Allox, No-Ox, or similarCONDUCTIVE greases. A good conductive grease will allow the benefits of environmental sealing, while not acting as and insluator injected into a critical gap where electrons should pass.



The Catch/hitch with the conductive greases is that they (like all greases) migrate and should not be used directly on connector pins where cavity seggregatinos cannot be guaranteed. (or you'll be installing your own short circuits).



Right goop for the right job really... I'm always amazed at the money I can make removing dielectric grease ...:watching:
 
#10 ·
imported post

Dialectric grease should not be used on any connections that generate heat... like the ACG connector or the REG/REC connectors. I have used it on most all my connectors on my bike and on customers bikes without any problems for the simple reason that it resists corrosion and corrosion is the main reason for connector failure.
I also use a marine quality grease on my battery cables/terminals and have no problem with corrosion.
 
#11 ·
imported post

dieletric grease is a non-conductive compound that inhibits corrosive build up inside a connector that is not a weather-pac connection

to use such compound you use a tiny bit you dont glob up the connection and slam it together, you smear a very very small ammount onto the electrical connection and voila...

using too much on a spade or plug in style with more than one spade may push the spades or connections out and cause them to make little to no contact.

on all the semi trucks ive worked on i use this grease on the head lamps, side markers and such that are in the elements, i do not use this compound on the ecm plug in's or on any sensor connection its not needed if the plug in is weather proof
 
Save
#12 ·
imported post

I use No-Ox between the conductors, and Dielectric grease on the Outside of the conductors, in a thin film. Just enough to cover the bare metal.

use the right grease for the right job.

Do NOT use dielectric grease on push together connectors Before they are mated up.
 
Save
#13 ·
imported post

A worthy post Arknapp.

Let me add... grease (any grease) attracts dirt.

My method of protecting Toshiba connectors that need sealing is to wrap the connectors at the wire entry points and the mating point with silicon self-adhering tape and then grease the small gaps between the wires where water would seep in.

If you try to seal a connector and fail, anywhere, it will become a water balloon inside and stay wet all the time, eating up the connectors and wires.

If a connector contact can get wet, it needs a means to get dry also or you will hasten the very effect you were trying to avoid in the first place.

Lay persons are better off leaving the connection open as designed so the connections can dry out. IMO.

Also don't use standard silicone seal on or around metals like your connectors are. It contains acetic acid and will eat what you are trying to protect. Even nearby vapors are enough to oxidize your connector contacts over time.

They make a non-acetic acid version for electronics if needed.
 
Save
#15 ·
imported post

The way I understand it, you're supposed to fill up the area where the wires go in the back of each connector to keep water out of the connector. I just fill up the gaps after reconnecting the blocks, making sure the grease is only in the rear of the blocks, and not slathered all over the place. Works for me. I am also fond of heat shrink tubing. I found some at the hobby shop that is about 3 inches in diameter, that will shrink down to about 1.5 inches. Hard to find, but is great for large plugs/connectors. It's bright yellow in color, and I think it was intended for making your own battery packs. jimsjinx
 
Save
#17 ·
imported post

I did not intend for a pi$$ing match on the use of dielectrics and anti- oxygen greases. Noal lux, rust inhibitors are used generally between 2 different conductors like copper and aluminum to help prevent oxidation and small electric currents causing wear on the weaker metal.

Most anti-oxygen type greases are conductive to aid in the flow of electrons over and through a barrier of dissimilar metals.

Another conductive grease is used for example in the plating industry, this grease is impregnated with small copper particles to aid high amperages through buss bars

Dielectric greases are a non conducting grease.

Please use each type of grease as designed. Use care. And at 12V nominal, most grease is non conductive. Remember that when any grease is badly applied it can wreck havoc with the circuit.

I simply say if you are not prepared to do it right, then do yourself a favour and don't use it. You would be better off doing an annual electric maintenance service.
 
#20 ·
imported post

Attempting to keep connectors dry is a futile endeavor. Unless you're using connectors that are specifically designed to be water or gas proof it's not going to be possible to grease, wrap or seal the connection completely well enough to keep moisture out. In fact it may make it worse since water can enter things as a vapor and then condense back to its liquid form which may not be able t find its way back out. Best bet, clean the contacts and make sure the contacts have a good grip on their mating parts. That's about it.
 
Save
#22 ·
imported post

Why don't y'all search Google for Dielectric grease and it's uses and get info from users, manufacturers etc. Just taking one source and using it as the answer is not good. Read about it yourself. I'm an aircraft electrician and I use both Dielectric and Ox-guard type greases depending on what I am doing. I'll tell ya this I use lots of dielectric on my bikes, Harley and Gold Wing. Mostly on lighting connectors that have the potential to get wet. I use Ox-Guard type greases outside on my radio coax connections for grounds, and where the tower pieces fit together. I use a different type of dielectric on the inside of the coax connectors, it's non silicone based. The bike stuff is silicone based. The Ox-Guard grease is just nasty, messy stuff. On battery connections you can use about anything. Vaseline, WD-40, Paint them with electrical paint. It's only there to slow down the corrosion that's going to be there anyway without some kind of regular service. I have never had an electrical failure due to greases of any sort. I don't put any type of grease on high amp connections, apart from the battery. Just make sure they are clean and tight to prevent high resistance shorts. Sometimes I put heat shrink on these connections but only for added protection against chaffing or shorting.

Google is a good source of info but check a couple of sources. I usually will check 3 sources and if they mostly agree with what I was thinking then I will press forward.

Anyway, There is my 2 cents, throw it in with the rest and buy a piece of gum.
 
Save
#23 ·
imported post

Cleaning your electrical is not all the CLR is eating away. I would not use CLR to anything electrical if you plan on keeping it for awhile. It is good for shower heads though. I read that about the CLR awhile back, I did not comment on it then though. I was kinda shocked actually someone would say that. If you want to clean electrical connectors use contact cleaner, if it's a switch use contact or tuner cleaner with the lubricant in it. If it's a battery trminal and has corrosion on it just mix a little baking soda and water and put it on the terminals and connectors and when clean rinse with water. Make sure you have the battery caps on tight so no baking soda/water solution goes in the battery. You can use other cleaners on contacts if you have the chemicals on hand. Some are carcinogenic though and most people should not have them or handle them.
There ya go with two more cents, might be getting close to buying a pack of gum.
 
Save
#25 ·
imported post

well for what it is worth im an electrician i do high-voltage and low-voltage all the time and on low voltage your normal dielectric grease does more harm than good and i wouldnt use it at all on batteriers they have special covers and different things for batteries to fit any battery in any area they will keep the connections clean. If you do use grease on your fiittings put them together first then use it. If thats not possible they do make a grease if thats what you want to call it that promots contact you get it from a electrical comany that does do alot of low voltage work it is rather expensive. Through work at a discount it is 50 to 60 dollars for 20 ounces. But read the directions because it does not take alot it says to put on a light film so 20 ounces goes along ways. as far as cleaning bad conections goodold electrical contacte cleaner does great and it is cheap. Any farm store carries it.
 
Save
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.