I would say that for the brake sliders, the white grease and for the axles the moly 60.

 

don't forget the splines on the driveshaft need to be cleaned and Honda MOLY60 applied sparingly, use a popsicle stick to spread thin layer into spline grooves
Too generous and a large mess appears outside~


I don't know if white grease and caliper grease are similar as far as temp and water resistance go
Brake parts get hot,,at least some peoples do....


As little of that moly tube as will be used, might as well apply it to the axles and pins, Again-- a little goes a long ways

 

Any opinions out there for grease on new steering head bearings? use the MOLY?
I have a full tube looking for action!
ummm I mean ..oh forget it

 

No, not really. Moly is not made for that kind of application. Best to use marine trailer wheel bearing grease but just any bearing grease is fine.

 

Moly60 on the steering head bearings should work fine, as it is meant for extreme pressures. but there are lubes directly intended for wheel bearings. Wheel bearing lubes will reflow when hot back to the bearings.... I don't know the flow characteristics of Moly60 other than it likes to "Stay Put" in static places like spline shafts. that is its' best forte.

 

Moly isn't really affected by water, so it will work fine in the steering head bearings. Most people don't bother as it is more expensive. Splines need the moly but wheel bearings and axles can do fine with conventional wheel bearing grease. Moly is a type of lubricant that bonds with the metal, whereas other lubricants don't and will fling off or migrate somewhere else.


I'm a fan of synthetic wheel bearing grease as its been my experience that once you get it in a bearing or spindle you rarely have any lack of lubricant problems.

 

thanks everyone for your experiences, being frugal on various grease purchases has to be in the what were you thinking category!
Use the right stuff in each area


slight threadjack: While I have the front apart, is replacement of the front wheel bearing wise? 120kmiles
Wait for disaster or spend $15 now hmmmm

 

do the Wheel Bearings while you got the tires off! I just did mine 2 weeks ago, the bike now has about 79k on it, it's a 1988 Gl 1500 you may as well check the steering head bearings re pack an re torque. I aslo went for a front fork fluid change. My line of thinking is while you got it apart at that mileage, you may as well go for the I dont want to be stuck on the side of the road problem, I also did my timing belts, spark plugs, Clutch lever ,and clutch lever bushing and my front brake Lever, it fixed my cruise control problem, I also, Re greased my speedo cable and checked the old girl for vaccum leaks on the old hoses and repaced my headlamp bulbs and The bike runs sweet!
I did find a vaccum leak on one hose, the 90 degree bend hose at the carbs had a smal hole, it was starting to fluctuate a bit in idle, I bought this bike used when it had about 63k on it from a dealer.
The fluids were junk, it looked like coffee! I had to rebuild my calipers flush and bleed the brake system unlcog the return ports on the masters and flush and bleed the clutch, all these little things tend to creep up on older wings like mine.


I was not happy with the Honda dealer that sold me my wing after seeing the stuck brake problem and the fluids that they said were just changed! I wont ever go to another dealer for any work there is enough knowledge here in this forum to help you thru just about anything that you may run into on a Wing


I now have to replace both mufflers! going to try the cheaper than Honda aftermarket Megaphone pipes from JP cycles

 

ck the use of Harley cruiser bike mufflers, you can find them on craiglist for 50-75$ nearly new. Those guys swap exhaust as a first mod~
Better flow rate and different tone than the Goldwing pipes.

When I ckd the bearings as you suggested- the steering head bearings were trash! at 120kmiles. those were fun to get the races out!
The wheel bearings felt fine, will leave them until next tire replacement

Grease = used $5 tub from autozone, synthetic hi temp waterproof bearing grease for steering bearings and axle
Saved the moly60 for the rear end splines when that job gets done,,making bike road trip anywhere anytime ready~

The front forks had 70kmiles on Lucas 10w fluid- it looked worse than ugly!! Stock springs were so weak the forks travelled full range going over speed bumps - slowly!
Installed new seal and bushing kit on forks with Progressive brand front springs, 15w Belray fluid
Now it gently goes over a speed bump, while improved turn-in to corners and tracking on freeway make it a brand new bike to ride and enjoy.
The list of things actually needed on a supposedly fine bike..oh well, she loves me back!!
and is the only 21 year old blonde with big `aftermarket headlights` that my wife says I can take to Vegas!!

 

for the OP, reminder to flush the clutch and brake fluid with DOT 4 spec fluid


Pay attention to years with Linked Braking System = that uses 1 front along with rear, from the foot pedal, Adds huge amount of brake torque when used...so many brake using only the front level , missing out on 60% of the real power!
The hand lever only operates 1 front disc
So the flush/bleed order is different than you may think, ck owner book or on here


That's supposed to be done at least every 2 years, with 1 year preferred, more if you abuse the brakes!
Fluid is cheap, speed bleeder fittings or a $25 mity vac suction pump/vacuum gauge/brake bleeder (HFT) for testing engine vac leaks, or the $6 harbor freight 1 man bleeders are all good tools for the job


Long trips frequently involve a heavily loaded bike and mountains = want the brakes perfect! new fluid goes a long way to that!
I would throw new pads on it - they are so cheap, and new is better than not sure exactly how much is left by looking at cut in pads
As pads get thinner - and ours don't have much meat to start- they lose effectiveness at shedding heat, causing them to lose brake torque they can generate..Its just physics ,,stuff that I read

 

for the OP, reminder to flush the clutch and brake fluid with DOT 4 spec fluid


or, use the new DOT 5.1 fluid for a harder brake feel, and more heat resistance to prevent fading brakes.

 

I use disc brake grease on the slides I find it seems to last longer than the tires.

I have used the disc brake grease on the axles and it seemed to work fine. The axle was not stuck like it would have been if the grease dried out.

 

that .1 is the critical part of 5.1,,, NEVER use 5.0 in the Wings DOT4 system, Use it only in vehicles that specifically call for 5.0


my bike already stops with 1 finger, is anyone using 5.1 in their bike that can give feedback on its upgrade??

 

BESIDE proper lube and good brake system condition, PLEASE consider THIS:

GL1500 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER SEAL: IF you've NEVER checked seal condition, DON'T allow what happened to me, do your
engine in! Had owned my '95SE 12 years [NEVER checking slave cylinder seal ....BIG Doofus!] when loud rod rap started in right bank @
end of our street, just as we were leaving on a long wedding Anniversary weekend trip. Slave seal, it turned out, was TOAST [ i. e., was non-
existent !]. DOT 4 had migrated into my newly changed oil/filter and, am sure, wiped out ALL my engine bearings...we limped back home
1/2 mile, very slowly! ]. A good, used engine has given me hope we may ride again this season [ already in Wing, with about 2 weeks more
work to finish everything ]. Just thought I'd pass along a Word To The Wise on this. TTFN.....Old Tom aka papasmurf in New Hampshire
P.S. Our Wing is sidecar rig ....have owned/driven four of them over past 47 years [ never ride solo any more! ].

 

Hi guys ..
Question- Is honda still making moly 60 or did they Rename to Assembly paste M-77?
The only dealer by me said its the same , he thinks.
my brother picked up 2 tubes in the Bronx and there M-77.
The bike is ready to be put back together just need the Right Lube or Paste.

thanks

Jay

 

I had never heard of the M77 until now but according to what I could find it replaces the moly 60.

 

Hey Dave.
I been trying to read up on it but im not finding to much information.
I got 2 tubes .. Honda M-77 Assembly Paste.. I can tell you it gray....lol
After all this I would hate to use the worng stuff......

thanks dave...


Jay

 

I Would PM AZ18000

but he's always yelling at me to get off his back and buy a manual! lol

 

Valvoline vv986 is moly 60 - Timken load rated 60 lbs

 

From CycleMax's website: http://cyclemax.com/inc/sdetail/honda_moly_assembly_paste/158744/254321

I read somewhere that the M77 is the replacement for Moly 60. I asked my local motorcycle mechanic about using Moly paste vs good quality high-temp bearing grease. It was his opinion that the good quality high-temp bearing grease would work just as well. I'm curious about opinions here, though. I'm going to be doing my steering head bearings and would like to know the opinions here on Moly paste vs bearing grease. I'll be replacing the wheel bearings as well, and I'll lube the final drive splines at the same time, so same question applies there.

 

I read somewhere that the M77 is the replacement for Moly 60. I asked my local motorcycle mechanic about using Moly paste vs good quality high-temp bearing grease. It was his opinion that the good quality high-temp bearing grease would work just as well.

M-77

If you listen to that ill informed jackolantern, you will ruin your spline drives.

It must state Moly 60 or better, do NOT under any circumstances buy anything that does NOT have the Word MOLY 60 or 80 in the label.

• Moly 60 and substitutes

Cyclemax - Honda Moly 60 Paste $9.00



Moly 60 paste makes it right, here is why you use it


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide


Lots of sources, Sears Sawbucks has it, any auto parts store has it, all Marine shops have it,

https://www.bing.com/images/search?...ges/search?q=moly+paste&id=77BDE7ECBACC93292C98D60AAB226773713625F8&FORM=IQFRBA

 

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~paste~08734-0001.html
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~moly~paste~08798-9010.html

found this?? On a honda parts site two different #s.

 

Valvoline part # VV632 is what I use on my Fords and trailer's wheel bearings and other bearings as well as my bike and trike's splines in driveshafts and bike's final drive to wheel drive splines.

 

There is a specific grease used for the calipers. These things get HOT and most conventional grease will melt and spread. One thing you don't need is grease on the rotors.

 

At some point after 1987 Honda started specifying Moly 60 instead of Moly 45. Now they've changed it again?

Realistically any quality grease should protect just fine. Lack of grease, or grease crystallized from sitting too long is the enemy. I've got 280K on my splines, using Valvoline Heavy Duty Moly Grease and Lubri-Matic White Lithium Grease until I got involved in this forum. Splines are fine, but the bike has been regularly ridden and maintained.

 

from moly 77 specifications




MICROLUBROL M-77 LUBRICANT PASTE GREASE Silicone + Moly





Product Description



A multipurpose, extreme pressure lubricating paste that can be used over a wide temperature range. It contains over 60 percent molybdenum disulfide lubricating solids in a Lithium soap thickened ultra-high performance silicone fluid.

Suitable for lubrication points with low to moderate loads and low speeds which are subjected to water and extreme loads and temperatures. At temperatures above 230ºC (446ºF), the carrier volatilizes leaving virtually no residue and the remaining dry sliding film itself takes over the lubrication up to 400ºC (750ºF).

 

to answer the question on steering bearings = Use plain ol wheel bearing grease, same for wheel bearings- high performance types if you prefer. Marine/waterproof never hurt!


For the spline shafts: MOLY 60, or 77 which would be newer spec
Anything you want to easily remove some years down the road, like things held in place by spline shafts = Use MOLY60/77
It stays on the part,, wont get flung off or melted out...parts will slide apart when you need them to!


You can use moly60 on many things BUT at its $10+ price for small tube!!, and how much you use greasing new steering bearings,,,
the $5 tub-o-grease is good for regular bearing locations.

 

Reason my wheel flange wore out on my '86 was no grease. The PO used no grease at all. I bought a tube of molly 60, ten bucks at the local stealer.

 

Honda M-77 Assembly Paste part# 08798-9010 tube size 2.65oz /1.75g
contains Molybdenum disulfide (1317-33-5j ), Dimethyl, Phenylmethyl-polysiloxane,Trimethyl terminated (63148-52-7 ), 12-Hydroxy-lithium stearate (7620-77-1 )
No mention of the Moly content/ % . I just bought a tube . Its near 20$ at my local stealer and they kept it out back not in the display racks with oils ans coolants ect. My understanding is it is an assembly lube for gears,cams and such internal bits needing good lubricant till the oil flow begins.
Could it work on the splines ? I dunno . I'll keep using Honda PRo Moly 60 for that till its not available.