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Some of the GWOCGB chaps say Baron Trikes tried the Robin axle when they were researching the whole trike idea. They decided it was no good, ratio wasn't suitable for use on all the Wing models available at the time. Also they reckoned the Robin axle wasn't good enough for the high miles expected on a Goldwing.
It's a pity really, I think the Robin axle was just about the right width for a Goldwing trike.

 

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ade747 wrote:

hi has any one on here used a reliant robin axle to trike there wing,reason i ask is do they know what gear ratios these axles are,also if any body knows about 416 air shocks people use,are they just a shock do they have a spring on,or do you still need to use a spring,thanks for any help,:?

The Progressive 416 series shocks have an air chamber and a coil spring (that is stiffer than the 1200 rear spriings) and a damper, all 3built into each 416 series shock.


I have 416s on my 1985 GL1200 Aspencade 2 wheeler and I have them on my 1997 GL1500 SE / Lehman Trike ... which also has a 6.75" ring gear integral carrier type Ford rear axle which is a shortened housing with new axles as used in many Ford Pintos and even some early Bronco IIs, etc. Also have 9" diameter Ford Drum Brakes.

The 416s have been "trouble free", they are 1997 vintage on my '85 .... and on the '97 Trike they are of 1998 vintage since the bike was "triked". Each has two 416s as the sole rear conmbined spring / shock with air adjustability. Progressive says they'll stand 100 psi, in fact they say tostartat 100 psi and load the bike / trike as you intend to ride it including passengers and then drop psi until suspension drops an inch from top of stroke. 100 psi will top them out, I know that.

I find I use about 40-50 on the '85 about max and never bottom out. I run as high as 65 sometimes on the trike when riding two up, loaded trunk and top trunk and pulling the trailer but usually 45-55 psi does it.

 

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THANK FOR REPLY.I AM STILL GETTING COLLECTING ASMUCH INFO AS POSSIBLE BEFORE I DECIDE WHAT OPTIONS ON AXLE TYPE I USE.

 

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Oh ... hey, I forgot to address the gear ratio question. :?

My trike has a 3.08:1 gear in the rear, but it originally came with P245/60-15 (26.6" OD, 9.6" section, 7.9" tread) Dunlop GT Qualifiers on 15x7 wheels with same exact backspace as Ford used on the 15x7 10 hole alloywheels as used on many mid '80s Mustang GTs and Thunderbird Turbo Coupes. Same 4 lug pattern as well. Lehman used an aftermarket alloywheel, I once scored an extra pair on Ebay for $70.

I currently run P215/70-15 (27.0" OD, 8.7" section, 7.0" tread)tires which saved me 4 pounds per tire (8 pounds total) or weight at the tread (outer edge of those two big flywheels called rear wheels) less to be spun up to speed or whoaed down from speed with less rolling resistance and less chance of hydroplaning due to jusdt over an inch less tread width, but near same diameter (actually a hair taller).

I used some 1/2" thick aluminum spacers and slightly longer Morosso 1/2"-20 studs to move the wheel out 1/2" and closer to the fender edge to make it look right with narropwer tires.

GL1200 and GL1500s bothuse a stock rear gear of 2.88:1 but tire is shorter than mine. My sheet shows a stock GL1500 rear 160/80-16 tire at 26.25" tall.

So even with my taller tires, my effective ratio if you consider tire diameter is maybe 4% lower which means I turn 4% more engine RPMs at any given speed than when stock, but then I also have about 4% more torque multiplication to get it rolling. 4%at road speed means about 120 RPM .... 3000 now versus 2880 stock.

Many trike manufacturers use a higher gear like 2.73 with a shorter tire specified like 225/60-15 or 215/60-15 or 205/70-14 and etc.


:waving:

 

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That's a Progressive series 416 on the Trike. It attaches to the back side of the rear axle, behind the center line.

 

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hello,thanks again for info,your trike looks nice,still thinking live axle or independent,are roads or highways are a little rough,some say the live axle gives you more feel about whats going on,but not as nice a ride as the independent,sometimes wish had left bike alone,but bad hips and goldwings dont go,

 

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Thanks on the compliment .....:waving:



Ifultimatehandling in the twisties is most important, solid axle with a very rigid swing arm and robust mounting to bike frame at swing arm pivot is the way to go.

If ride smoothness is more important, then independent rear suspension is the way. There is a trade off, but independent suspensioned trikes are more than capable of returning many "smiles per mile".

If you take a trike with rear independent suspension and add a fat anti roll bar (or sway bar as some call it) you are making it act more like a solid axle with rigid swing arm. You gain handling in twisties but loose softness of ride. Champion has an option now that a couple friends have with their new independent Champions, adjustable anti roll bar that is adjusted while you ride.

With a bike you have less unsprung weight and you are always above in relation to your weight on the seat. When healed over in a turn, you still press down into the seat, there is little or no force trying to slide you off the side of the seat.

With a trike, in curves, the forces try to slide you off the seat and you support your upper body.

With a bike, you are mostly traveling within one track, not hard to gently dodge most pot holes, etc. Dips and sways in road surface, roadway super elevation, etc is rarely transmitted to the rider. The ride is smooth.

With a trike, you have three tracks where ever you go, dips and sways and super elevation changes directly affect the trike's attitude, it is harder to get three tracks past a pot hole without one clipping it.

On a bike, you ride straight up through dips, on a trike you move side to side some.

A bike is a smoother ride, but wet surfaces and such can yank the ride out from under you easier.

A trike is not as smooth a ride, but it's a lot more likely to stay under you regardless of surface condition or curve.

With a bike, one must more carefully choose where to pull off the Blue Ridge Parkway for that photo.

With a trike, one has greater lattitude in choices, any near horizontal and some really non horizontal surfaces work fine.

With a bike, you barely move to steer while on a trike, you move your upper body to steer.

With a bike, feet come down at stops, with a trike they stay on the pegs / floor boards.

A bike can't run over your heal, a trike sometimes can if you aren't careful.

A trike takes up more room at a gas pump, don't forget the rear fenders .... some have .... not me ..... not yet.

A bike looses gas mileage when converted to a trike picking up rear sails and weight, but tows a trailer with much less drama as a trike.A trike with large rear brakes will out stop a loaded bike ... and with a trailer, it's no contest. Trike wins, put it in rear of group.

I enjoy both immensly ....for different reasons.

Hope it helps.

 

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:waving:hello again,i am looking foward to riding trike,when on the bike am allways thinking of time to put feet down,my hips ache,not all the time,but in your mind you are thinking of it,so your not thinking of whats going on around you,so the trikes the way,my wife likes to come alongand i think on the trike would be more enjoyable.thanks for your comments,and the fact you reply at all.joining this site was a good idea,and i enjoy reading other peoples ideas and things they have done,well going to eat my dinner and then watch american chopper on quest channel,happy riding.

 

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ade747 wrote:

got axle today,3.09.1 final drive,from a ford capri 3.0.will narrow it a small amount,its 52 inches from flange to flange,can get the shaffs resplined on the end a gain 2,1/2 inches:?each side should be ok,

 

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ade747 wrote:

ade747 wrote:

made error,diff ratio is 3.09.1

 

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ade747 wrote:

ade747 wrote:

:applause:looks like the drive is 1 inch to the right,will have a proper measure tomorrow.

 

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Looks to me like maybe you can respline over further if need be once you get past the reduced area?



I'll get some measurements off my Lehman's 6.75 Ford rear and post for you in a bit. Might help?



The yoke does not need be, nor should it be, directly in line with the bike's output shaft, Universal joints like a little angle to keep the rollers moving and thus spreading wear over the whole of the bearing surfaces throughout the rotation. If they don't move, they wear the rollers on two sides. Means the differential housing can sit back towards center.

 

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Hi ade. i used a reliant axle on my gl1000 shortend one side.the gear ratios for them are 2.78/1 3.23/1 4.375. why dont you cut the shaft then pin and weld it to save having the splines recut

 

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Nice run thru on trike/bike crystal, I hear what you are saying about the angle with the yoke but what about a car that doesn't have the angle?
I wish the person that built mine went terrys route. I'd just feel happier laying down power. I've never tried lighting up the rear wheels because of the angle. Or is that old age
Ade I've got an MGB axle. I do lust after IRS but only to deal with all the speed humps in town.
Good luck with the build

 

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if you read about independant systems they say there not so good at speed as the live axle,i dont know but it seems to be the opinion of many,unless you spend big cash on a system.:readit: