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Fantastic progress in a short amount of time Westgl.
I think you'll be as pleased once on the road as you are thus far.
Tuning is key to optimum performance. Once dialed-in you may forget about ever finishing that choke. A couple pumps of throttle to start it and a throttle lock is all I've ever needed on the coldest of days.
Rob and you moved quick on getting to this point. Impressive.
Lets not forget Bob. It was he who put Tom in our sights.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks for your help CM85.

Who is Bob?

Does he have a Forum go-by name here?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I went out last night 9:30p.m. checked for any leaks.

There were No leaks

I wanted to do a single Carb conversion cause my bike had hydro locked at least 4 times, previously,

So I felt i could not trust this bike, to take me anywhere and bring me home reliably.

True, it is my fault for not closing the fuel tank shut off valve.

But so far i have forgotten to do it at least 4 times

So for now at least No fuel leaking.

Before Fuel would leak on top of the engine and a big puddle of fuel under the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Started the bike last night 9:30p.m. from a cold start.

Started Instantly!!

Held throttle open about 1500rpm for less than 15 seconds, that was all it needed.

From there I felt i could have ridden it.

That accelerator pump really does help a lot
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I wonder? how the 32DFT weber carb would work as a Single carb. conversion,

for a GL1500?

Stock GL1500 is two cv33 mm carbs.

I have a GL1500 trike, that may get a new induction conversion, probably have to re-jet the carb. though.

A really simple Manifold, (Much easier to do, than the GL1100 manifold) can be made to fit the GL1500. __________________
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hey CM85

Would you happen to know,

What all of the jet sizes and emulsion tubes sizes are in this 32DFT carb?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I have a laser digital thermometer, just point the laser at anything and read it temperature.

After warm up, Started the bike and took some temp readings, while engine was running.

All cylinders are within 1-2 degrees of each other, so i think that the engine is running very well.

I also used this thermometer to check the center manifold, if it does ice or freeze, i can take a temp. very quickly.

I took temp.'s at the Oem intake manifolds, Heads, and cyl top of engine, VW manifold, after bike was up to temp.

Surprising the Temp issue of Icing or freezing did not seem to be a problem, The VW plenum was at 103 degrees, if the fuel was freezing, i would think the VW Manifold would have been much colder.

I did for now anyway, remove the Cover behind the radiator, this allows more radiator heat to get back to the VW manifold and the Carb., and provide heated air to the carb intake while running, this may be a big help.
 

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Hey CM85

Would you happen to know,

What all of the jet sizes and emulsion tubes sizes are in this 32DFT carb?

Thanks
Unless Tom has changed anything (I don't think he has), the carb should be factory jetted.

Pic below is from the Ford manual specific to the carburetor.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks CM85,

Update: they are calling it a well tube, instead of a emulsion tube

Would it be the jetting for the Manual trans in our carbs?

I dont see emulsion tube size listed there, any idea what that would be?


Unless Tom has changed anything (I don't think he has), the carb should be factory jetted.

Pic below is from the Ford manual specific to the carburetor.
 

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Thanks CM85,

Would it be the jetting for the Manual trans in our carbs?

I dont see emulsion tube size listed there, any idea what that would be?
Auto or Manual I don't know. Tom should've left the Ford tag on the carbs body to identify it?

Emulsion tubes in Ford terminology are the Well tubes.

The figures on the charts top horizontal line would be the same vertically for the other carbs unless a different figure appears.

Otherwise, I believe the model differences are in tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
That picture of the Jets is not very clear,

What does it read from left to right.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Thanks CM85

That is a really good source of information,

I like the high elevation compensation, that can be added to these carbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
CM85

Another thought I had to make a Intake Manifold like the
Juans & LDwingnut manifold.

Is to take a spare Goldwing head with the OEM manifold's mounted, to the head down to my muffler shop, and have him mandrel bend a few U shaped tubes going from the front to the rear cyl's on the oem manifolds

Just happen to have a spare head in the shop with oem manifolds mounted.

Probably use some 1.3/8" OD x .055-.062 thin wall steel tube, with 1.25" ID silicone hose over the tube then pushed into the Oem manifold then clamped as this is a great tight seal, to the oem manifolds, it will take up the difference and have something stiff to clamp to, the connects would very easy also.

This seems like, to me, that it would have a better/Faster charge speed into the cyl.'s. as it would be the same ID as the Oem manifolds.

ID of the manifold, less of a larger air gap Volume, like the VW manifold has and more directed.

But i have to say that My GL1100 Is running excellent, so how can i get much better.

Have the muffler shop mandrel bend a couple of 180 degree U shaped manifold ends, this would be the 1-3/8" od steel tube, as this is the correct size thin wall Steel tubing to go from one manifold to the other,

U shaped, Like from Front to Rear cyl.'s on left side and Front to Rear cyl. on right side head, so they can be clamped in the oem manifolds,

then at the top or end of the bend open a hole, also the ID of the 1-3/8" steel tube.

Have muffler guy weld on a short piece of straight pipe on the new hole opening.

Now you could use that same Silicone hose 1-1/4"ID, between the two new piece's and the center section that muffler guy just bent w/ the short straight stub tube welded on.

Then a third piece could be made for the center section to mount the single barrel carb. Or a 2bbl carb.

You could have two different center section made, for each carb base,

Again using the same steel tubing for the center section and making a carb. mounting plate.

Those "U" shaped Manifolds would make some really Nice Dual carb.
Manifolds.

I could probably crank out a set of dual carb manifolds out in a weekend, they seem like they would be pretty easy.

Have My Muffler guy mandrel bend me a couple of few pairs of them, he is cheap when it comes to that sort of thing

I wonder if two 32DFT's would be to much for a GL1100 or GL1200

I may build this manifold, Just to prove it, for my GL1200 Reverse trike project that is coming up for winter. i have 95% of what i need to complete this project

I will need to change connectors for my shop's 220V outlets, for my Compressor, Plasma Gun, and Welder, so they will be ready to go here at the new shop.

The Dual Carb manifolds would be good on a Reverse Trike with the Chevy Alternator off the front using 5" diameter pulley from tractor supply that charges at full from idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I imagine that my new, new to me, 3200-Sq foot shop will get a little cold this winter.

These are Very Efficent!!

And you are using something that people through/give away.

The Old Hot water heater is Also a throw away, it must be a electric Hot water heater, they are easier to convert.

You can use a smaller water heater, but for a big shop, you want a big heater.

Once you strip all that stuff off of the heater tank it is not really that big.

Then run a chimney tube to out side, i just happen to have it already in the roof on my shop just need to tubing.

Old Oil is Cheap/Free fuel.

I will also be building a Waste Oil Heater for my shop, to keep me warm during the winter.

Waste Oil is fired and burns inside a 50gal Electric Hot Water heater, only using the water tank and burner, the rest goes by by.

Then I am going to convert it to oil burner, it is very cheaply done.

All waste oil (engine Oil, from oil changes, neighbors free to you Oil used engine oil.

Old Oil gets put into a 5 gal holding tank, that is 3-4 feet higher than the heater is gravity feed at a certain rate, this can be hook up to a thermostat with a oil drip rate monitor based on a cheap thermostat

That's the plan anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Went out, checked for any fuel leaks, NONE at all with the New single carb Conversion.

I am pretty sure i would have had a hydrolocking fuel spill all over, If I would have had the OEM carbs, on there right now as the Fuel filter was FULL.

Cold Start;

I started her up again, started Instantly, held the throttle at 2k rpm for about 1-2 minutes from dead cold over night.

It would run with out me Hold the throttle up at 2k rpm's I wanted to see how fast it would be warm and ready to ride.

After that she ran much better then OEM, OEM seem much more cold blooded, maybe 5 minutes, with choke on for a 1 minute, oem was a longer period of time at initial start up.

Engine was up to temp. Ok felt the lower center of the VW manifold, while it was running, It was like a refrigerator, it was cold.

I could not get the temp gun under there to get a reading.

Took temp on each header coming 2" out of the head, all cyl. within 2-3 degrees of each other
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Cut out the pan of the Air filter.

For that air filter i used a large diameter O-ring, that fit around the carb top, it seals really well.

When i started it this time, to really listen to it running, without any enthusiasm or maybe concentration to block it out.

That Engine sounds really good, I am noticing the cam lope much more than i did before, with the OEM carb rack.

It sounds more like a Healthy V8 Camaro with a nice mild cam in it now, than a Goldwing, Were did my gold wing go?

The Intake sound is noticeable, and sound's really good too, and is a nice complement to the way the bike sounds now.

Should i put a Chevy Bowitie on it to scare away the HD's
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Last work for today.

1. Finished cutting out the throttle cable Hold bracket, I really put that off, I knew building a part with manual tools was going to be a PITA i am better with power tools.
2. Cut out lower plate for Air Filter so that it would fit carb. top, installed Large O-ring as Carb to filter seal.

To do list for tomorrow, yea like i am going to follow that list.
1. Oil & Filter change on engine, a couple of hydro locks and sitting for a while, i think it is a good idea, see that i am going to put it under a load and give it a test ride, Really Soon!!.
2. Air filter is going to be fastened by a piece of all thread, nut & a rubber washer, with metal washer, & Wing Nut.
3. Get a piece of hose for Crankcase breather to new air filter base plate
4. Longer screws into front of VW manifold for carb hold down, as new throttle Cable hold bracket, I am only two threads on the fastener, Mil spec requires at least 3.5 threads per fastener.

Some Pictures
#1 & #2, #3, & #4 & #5 you can see my cable hold Bracket, it still needs some primer & paint.
#3 & 4 shows the uni-link throttle cable attachment, there is now way that oem cable end is getting out of there.
#6 shows large O-ring as filter to carb seal
#2 you can see the OEM "D" washer, & adjustment nut on the throttle cable
Throttle cable may some slack taken out of it, but for now it is fine, fine for testing that is.
#7 is the Air Filter

I may also need a slight twist adjustment in the throttle cable hold bracket, so it is at a better angle.
Throttle cable hold down Bracket is 3/16" thk. steel

We do have Full Throttle with this cable and bracket combo
In fact, the OEM Honda throttle pull is Longer than this Weber Single Carb. Conversion setup.


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I've dual manifolds set-up for using the DFT's made and sitting at my Fabricators shop. I've no plan on using them on the daily rider.

My experience in using a adapter so that a Solex can be used on the plenum is good and lasted about a year with a full winter here in SD being in the middle of the time period. A Brosol H30/31 works just fine and the choke makes for easy warm-ups. No complaints from me if used on a daily rider in any conditions. I'm pleased with the results I got out of it.

I had the float stick on my DFT once resulting in a hydro-lock. I posted about it here and maybe elsewhere. I don't know why it happened. It was shortly after mounting a new carb and I don't know what to blame it on exactly. I'm guessing a piece of fuel line broke free internally and made its way to the float valve. I just don't know. I cleared the cylinders and have been trouble-free/worry-free ever since. This was last year sometime during the Spring, thereabouts...

Yeah, I gave up comparing my conversion to a stock rack some time ago. My bike is just rock-reliable and steady due in part to this carburetor.

I've attached pics as food-for-thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
CM85,

Have you ran a dual DFT carb setup?
Was two DFT's to much carb. for Our wings?

I have been running Two fuel filters One out of the tank stock Oem location clear filter, and another fuel filter after fuel pump before carbs, as ther can be crap trapped in a fuel pump, that releases intermittently.

Yea you could of just had something in the hose, or a small piece of hose.

Today,
I have a small punch list to get done on the bike, then i am going to do a load test, by giving it a test ride.
 
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