[Gone14s]

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RayJay1959 wrote:

Also, do I have to pull the carbs with the ripped diaphragm to fix them or can I install the diaphragm with the carbs still attached??

Yes you can. Just remove the carb chrome caps on each carb. There is a long spring under the cap so beware of it as you take the last screw out of each cap.
You have to pull the front lower fairing to get to all the carb caps.


You can pull the daipham out on each carb, just do it easy! The sliders and needle are all one part and will come out together. If your just replacing the daiphrams you can seperate the needle from the slider. There is a plastic holder keeping the needle inside the slider. The slider and daiphrame are all one unit. Put your needle in the new assem and reinstall the daiphram, spring and cap.



Before pulling the old slider all the way out, pull it slowly, Is it sticking or having a hard time lifting out??Does it go back down with the same problem..sticking??
If the slider is stuck in the bore take some WD40 and sprayin between the slider and carb bore. If you can't get the slider out of the carb bore the carbs will have to come out. So keep soaking the slider if it is stuck in the carb, it will come loose after a while...take your time with it.!!!!!!!


If it is clean the slider sides with carb cleaner, also clean the borein the carb that the slider came out of. You should be able to put the slider back in the carb and move it with out sticking or hanging up with your fingers.

You can hold each daiphrame up to a strong ligh and locate any pin holes.


You can put a set of sync gages on the carbs to tell if the sliders are working. The gages willjump on each cyln if the slider is working. If one or more does not then you found the carb and slider that is stuck in the bore.


Good luck Kurt

 

[RayJay1959]

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I found them here.... http://www.gl1200parts.com/ for $40 a piece. No gluing, it's the complete diaphragm and slide assembly. I'll find out tomorrow how many I'll need. Thx Kurt for the great advice. I feel confident enough to do this repair. I felt pretty good after I removed the seat(which I'll be postioning further back when assembled), lowers and false tank.

 

[RayJay1959]

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I click on the link for the $40 diaphragm and it is $50 a piece now!! Oh well, I need em!!

 

[BobbydSp]

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RayJay, Look again.
I just clicked on that link and it still says $40.
Bobby

 

[HoosDad463]

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Be careful. The link you posted, http://www.gl1200parts.com/, looks like the new name for Sabre Cycle. Many members have had issues with them. Search the forum for Sabre Cycle to check it out.:readit::readit::readit:

I also clicked the link for the item itself, and the price changed to $50.

 

[Gone14s]

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RayJay1959 wrote:

I found them here.... http://www.gl1200parts.com/ for $40 a piece. No gluing, it's the complete diaphragm and slide assembly. I'll find out tomorrow how many I'll need. Thx Kurt for the great advice. I feel confident enough to do this repair. I felt pretty good after I removed the seat(which I'll be postioning further back when assembled), lowers and false tank.

Well if it where me I would pull the sliders out and take a look at the daiphrams befor I ordered anything. They may just need a cleaning up.



Kurt

 

[jwhitmore44]

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Personally I would go with Randaks diaphragms and I would do all 4. I don't have any experience with them but his kits get good ratings. While I was there I would get the kits and rebuild the carbs so I wouldn't have to worry about it for quite awhile again. I tried doing the diaphragms on my old BMW airhead and ended up going back in with a carb kit not to much longer afterwards. Would have been less work to done it all at once If one tore what kind of shape can the others be in? Just a thought.

 

[RayJay1959]

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I checked out the randak diaphragms. You get all 4 but no slides. You're supposed to glue the new diaphragm in place. I might as well just use the randak glue and glue the rips together instead!! At $120 for the set of 4, I'd rather go with the Cyber Cycle ones that are complete. I've only pulled one diaphragm and it had a big tear in it!! I'm pulling the others today, but it's 94 out right now and I don't have the ambition to roast right now

 

[Gone14s]

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RayJay1959 wrote:

I checked out the randak diaphragms. You get all 4 but no slides. You're supposed to glue the new diaphragm in place. I might as well just use the randak glue and glue the rips together instead!! At $120 for the set of 4, I'd rather go with the Cyber Cycle ones that are complete. I've only pulled one diaphragm and it had a big tear in it!! I'm pulling the others today, but it's 94 out right now and I don't have the ambition to roast right now

Ray it looks like you found the problem then. Replace them and start the bike. If it runs fair take it down the road for a good trip, 100 miles or so. see how it's running when you get home. Hopefully all you will need to do is a good full tune up and your good to go.



Kurt

 

[jwhitmore44]

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RayJay1959 wrote:

I checked out the randak diaphragms. You get all 4 but no slides. You're supposed to glue the new diaphragm in place. I might as well just use the randak glue and glue the rips together instead!! At $120 for the set of 4, I'd rather go with the Cyber Cycle ones that are complete. I've only pulled one diaphragm and it had a big tear in it!! I'm pulling the others today, but it's 94 out right now and I don't have the ambition to roast right now

You might search the forum for Saber Cycles, although the bait and switch($40 to $50) should clue you into what you may be dealing with. Don't think I would glue the rips either, don't think they would flex correctly after that.

 

[RayJay1959]

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I only inspected the 2 that were accessible so far. The left one was torn and the right one was fine. With the upper fairing still on the bike, I couldn't inspect the 2 front diaphragms. I couldn't get enough torq on a 90 degree ratchet screwdriver. Any ideas, or do I need to pull the fairing off to get a real screwdriver on it? I went to Crescent Moon Cycles and talked to Frenchy. They're not open yet in their new shop, but he said he had some used carbs with good diaphragm/sliders. He'll sell me one for $15 as soon as he gets organized(7-10 days at most). In the meantime, I couldn't wait. Since the randak diaphragms use glue to put em on, I used auto gasket maker and sealed the rip in the diaphragm. Let it dry and put the bike together enough to ride it. WOW, I have power!! It's not running 100% yet, but I have a lot more throttle now and can cruise at 70 all day long and don't lose speed going up a hill. After I replace all the torn diaphragms (hopefully only the one is torn), I'll synch the carbs and see how she runs then.

 

[jwhitmore44]

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Now that sounds more like a 1200 I don't have any help for removing the caps on the other two carbs I'm afraid, short of pulling the rack. I don't think you have to remove the upper fairing to remove the rack and carbs. But, it almost sounds like the one torn diaphragm may have been your problem.

 

[Gone14s]

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RayJay1959 wrote:

I only inspected the 2 that were accessible so far. The left one was torn and the right one was fine. With the upper fairing still on the bike, I couldn't inspect the 2 front diaphragms. I couldn't get enough torq on a 90 degree ratchet screwdriver. Any ideas, or do I need to pull the fairing off to get a real screwdriver on it? I went to Crescent Moon Cycles and talked to Frenchy. They're not open yet in their new shop, but he said he had some used carbs with good diaphragm/sliders. He'll sell me one for $15 as soon as he gets organized(7-10 days at most). In the meantime, I couldn't wait. Since the randak diaphragms use glue to put em on, I used auto gasket maker and sealed the rip in the diaphragm. Let it dry and put the bike together enough to ride it. WOW, I have power!! It's not running 100% yet, but I have a lot more throttle now and can cruise at 70 all day long and don't lose speed going up a hill. After I replace all the torn diaphragms (hopefully only the one is torn), I'll synch the carbs and see how she runs then.

Nice Ray, When you pull the sliders and replace the tore one just do a good cleaning on the slider bores in the carb body. Make sure each slider moves up and down nice and easy.

Other than that sounds like you have it beat.



Kurt

 

[neoracer]

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go with randakk,he doesn't sell any inferior stuff

 

[RayJay1959]

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UPDATE.... After following the Klymer manual for removing the fairing, it was still stuck on. I started reading the Haynes manual and its procedure was different. I followed it and still was stuck. No matter what I did, I had to pull the mirrors/headlight to remove the screws in there to the fairing frame. Good thing as the right mirror mounting was shot. He must have dropped the bike on the mirror and tried to fix it with clear bathroom caulk Once I had the screws off, I had my neighbor help me move the fairing 4" so I could get access to the front 2 slider/diaphragm cap screws. Remember how I said that I had way more power when I used gasket maker to repair the diaphragm? Well, after removing the remaing 2 slider/diaphragms, both had a small tear in them. Holy mackeral, I was running on 1 cylinder I'm replacing all 4 since 3 were toast anyway. Can't wait to see how she runs then!!!!! Thanks everyone for all your help in this. I've never worked on a Goldwing before, only Harley's. I could drop the fairing on my harley with 4 bolts

 

[jwhitmore44]

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Let us know how it compares to your tour glide after you get them fixed

My old airhead BMW had bad diaphragms when I first got it. I thought it ran well but it got terrible gas millage. Once I got the carbs back into shape I couldn't believe how much better it ran.

It's good to hear that persistence is paying off for you.

 

[wingsam41]

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Reminds me of my bro's bike as well. He drives a Suzuki Bandit that had the carbs "rebuilt" by a local dealer. I was duly unimpressed with the way the bike ran after he got it back. That was last season and he always properly stores bike for the winter. This year the bike's performance didn't improve-imagine that. We were getting our bikes ready for our Canada trip early this year and I convinced him that the carbs needed to be gone through. After we did it he took it for a test drive, came back and the smile on his face was evident behind his faceshield. Apparently he cracked the throttle going about 35MPH and lifted the front wheel. To sum up both previous carb rebuilds weren't done well and bike hasn't run that great for years-he just got used to it and forgot how much power it once had!

 

[RayJay1959]

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My wife asks me last night...Are we going riding tomorrow?? UMMMM....My bike is in pieces in the driveway with my cover over it. For her defense, the cover is over it, so she didn't know how much I had to tear it down so I can fix the carbs. With my wife wanting to go for a ride, I couldn't wait for Frenchy to open his new store, so this morning, I drove down to Phoenix(temp=113 w/ NO a/c)and checked out Bob's Motorcycle Salvage. They found three slider/diaphragms for me. No problem, I have 1 good one. I get home and start putting the slider/diaphragms in. After I get done washing the slider/diaphragms in carb cleaner, my 1 good one has a pinhole in it. Well, I still have the 1 I fixed with gasket maker and it's still holding. I'll put that 1 in the rear so I can change it out ez I don't plan on putting the lowers on until I can take her for a good test run or 2 or maybe a month or 2 hehehe.

Neighbor and I were in the drive putting my bike back together most of the afternoon. Those mirrors and the headlight are a real pain. Every time you put a clip in for the headlight, it falls out trying to get the bolt in. As for the mirrors, with the bottom bolt mounts broke on both mirrors, I had to use washers and nuts on the inside....which meant I had to pull the speakers to get my hands in there. OK...this bike is an antique, I keep telling myself. It needs tender loving care. I'll have everything but the lowers on tomorrow and will be taking my 1st test ride. Maybe, if my wife is real good to me, I'll take her for a ride ..... fyi, I didn't need to unplug any electrical or undo the air hoses from the fairing since I only needed to move it 4 inches!! That made it a bit easier. I was afraid to unplug the elctrical connectors thinking they may fall apart on me. They are 27 yrs old!!

 

[IRAQI RAM]

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Here's 4 pages of comments. I'm surprised nobody told you not to mess with the fairing to get at the front of the carbs. It'd have been quite a lot simpler and faster to just take off the carbs. Or at least to just get them undone a bit and then tilt them toeach side to get at the front caps.

Messing with the fairing to do carbwork is like delivering a baby through the throat. But at least you're done.:claps:

 

[sctrucker]

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IRAQI RAM wrote:

Here's 4 pages of comments. I'm surprised nobody told you not to mess with the fairing to get at the front of the carbs. It'd have been quite a lot simpler and faster to just take off the carbs. Or at least to just get them undone a bit and then tilt them toeach side to get at the front caps.

Messing with the fairing to do carbwork is like delivering a baby through the throat. But at least you're done.:claps:

i was sitting here reading this thinking the same thing, the removal of the carbs in like a hour and a half job, hope you enjoy the power a 1200 has!!