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ABS pipe cement or bumper repair cement, probably the same thing.

 

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+1 on the ABS pipe dope.

The tupperware is made of ABS plastic, so make sure that you get the ABS pipe dope, not the usual PVC pipe dope.

Chemically reacts with the ABS and actually melts/welds it.

 

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WingMan71 wrote:

+1 on the ABS pipe dope. The tupperware is made of ABS plastic, so make sure that you get the ABS pipe dope, not the usual PVC pipe dope. Chemically reacts with the ABS and actually melts/welds it.

WingMan that is a sharp looking wing-put up some pics!. Does the ABS stuff work for the missing tabs on the front fairings? At least one of my broken tabs is still under the screw. And what if the tab is missing? Was going to form one out of bondo then shape and have paint touch up done. Any better ideas?

 

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you can reform a missing tab with the abs glue and abs shavings. Takes some time but works well. The abs cement will melt shavings mixed in with it. Make a form around the missing tab with clay then apply the abs/shaving paste. When the chemicals evaporate it will be as strong as the original. Careful of fumes and dust making shavings though. You can also melt the shavings in MEK and make a paste that way. Very simular to bondo. Build it up and sand to shape.

 

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Make sure you get the hard to get Black ABS glue which melts and welds the ABS not the Yellow which is just a glue and works on the large surfaces of a pipe fitting but is not suitable for small parts or cracks in ABS plastic.

 

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This?
http://www.google.com/products/cata...nOnAeasIDWCg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CDUQ8wIwAw#

 

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BONDO WILL NOT HOLD! what you need is a 2 part adhesive made for ABS plastic. check your local body shop supplier. 3M makes some real good stuff. the stuff I used required a special dual plunger gun to dispense but I'm sure they could steer you right.

 

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wingsam41 wrote:

This?
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?rlz=1T4TSHB_enUS261US261&q=abs+pipe&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=6503398714449473674&ei=y130TNHDKMnOnAeasIDWCg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CDUQ8wIwAw#

Yep that's the stuff.
Like I said you're unlikely to find it at your local hardware store, all I've ever seen is the Yellow glue.

 

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No problem-not too far or I can order-just use some ABS pipe or pipe fittings for shavings? Does it shape like bondo when dry-ie.sandable? Need to remove all paint first?

 

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I broke a pin off my side cover. I took a dremel tool and made a groove to inlay a small nail. I then used the Loctite brand "epoxy for plastic", and that worked great. I broke a tab off another panel, and had to reform a small missing chunk. I went with the black abs and shavings trick, and I could shape it, spot putty it, and paint it. Let it dry a full day or even better, several days, before you start sanding/shaping. jimsjinx

 

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if you want more a pro solution. Look up plastex plastic repair kit. I've used it and it works well also

 

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I made a lot of tupperware repairs on old bikes when I have my shop. The best cement is plain old ABS cement as already mentioned. It's the black goop in the little round can with a dauber under the lid. This stuff will make a chemical weld to the substrate ABS you're trying to bond to. Epoxy type glues won't really hold. You can put a daub of them on a part and pop it off with a knife blade. Won't happen with ABS cement. Lowes, Ace hardware and many stores sell the stuff. Black one part ABS cement you don't need any primer because the cement is a solvent thickened with dissolved ABS plastic. It will eat into the plastic surface and result in a very strong join. I buy a piece of ABS pipe (1 1/2" ABS pipe is a good size to make a fork seal driver out of ) and hit it with my sander to make ABS dust which mixed with a bit of cement gives a nice body putty. Don't lay the stuff on very thick or you'll soften the plastic under it and it will take a week or two to harden. Thin coats to build it up if you're making things like new pins. A broken off pin can be glued back on, I had two on a side cover on my 1500 that was holding up well after several years. You can stick a small screw or nail in place and build up the ABS putty a layer at a time then sand it to the shape of the pin. Cracks are easy, put some masking tape on the side that's painted and work a thin coat of cement into the crack on the other side. Flex the plastic if you can to work the cement into the edges of the crack. It takes a bit of time since you have to wait for a coat to dry before you can add another but it works very well and is cheap. It took me several days to rebuild the bottom of an 1100 Aspy trunk. I got a piece of ABS from a plastic shop and made a doubler for the bottom of that trunk after I glued the cracks in the original bottom. Came out real well and was twice as strong as original.

 

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If you need to form something(like a tab), attach something, or to fill in holes like I needed to do a short while back, then I can reccommend using some PC-7 2 part epoxy. You can form it, sand it, drill it. Stuff works good

 

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I'm gonna go the route of ABS. I've used many types of sealants and epoxy in my previous job - was an aircraft mechanic-used epoxy to repair many parts in the cabin such as trim, armrest plastic etc. Had access to the good stuff including Scotchweld which is supposed to be like JB weld on steroids. If the part expands and contracts and is subject to movement, changes in temp. etc. the epoxy will likely separate or break at the bond eventually. At least that has been my experience. One tecnique used commonly when a crack starts to develop was to stop drill the crack at the apex of the crack with a small drill bit. Unfortunately this results in a small hole but often it may be in a less visible area or can be filled from the unfinished side only so not noticeable.

 

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Locktite plastic epoxy is the best stuff i have found .It burns into the plastic to make a solid repair

 

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wingsam41 wrote:

WingMan that is a sharp looking wing-put up some pics!. Does the ABS stuff work for the missing tabs on the front fairings?

wingsam41,

The replies on using ABS pipe cement and ABS shavings to make the missing tabs are right on. That's the way to go.

You asked for a pic of my bike. Here's one. (It spent the first 20 years of its life in Tucson, AZ, before I bought it in 2007.) I took it nearly completely apart shortly after I got it to recondition/restore it as necessary. It haswon its class in every show I've entered it in so far.

 

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Ken Bergen wrote:

Make sure you get the hard to get Black ABS glue which melts and welds the ABS not the Yellow which is just a glue and works on the large surfaces of a pipe fitting but is not suitable for small parts or cracks in ABS plastic.

The black ABS is probably not available at all in Canada--only the yellow stuff, which is NOT just a glue, but will melt the ABS just like the black stuff. It is yellow because of the plumbing code in Canada. Yellow makes it easier for plumbers and inspectors to see if all joints have been bonded. Guess they have better eyes in the states.

I dropped into an Ace Hardware store in Calais, Maine to get my black stuff.

 

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Gives a Canadian a reason to buy a Yellow 'Wing and US citizens a black one.:action:

 

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WingMan71 wrote:

wingsam41 wrote:

WingMan that is a sharp looking wing-put up some pics!. Does the ABS stuff work for the missing tabs on the front fairings?

wingsam41,

The replies on using ABS pipe cement and ABS shavings to make the missing tabs are right on. That's the way to go.

You asked for a pic of my bike. Here's one. (It spent the first 20 years of its life in Tucson, AZ, before I bought it in 2007.) I took it nearly completely apart shortly after I got it to recondition/restore it as necessary. It haswon its class in every show I've entered it in so far.

(Wearing sunglasses and squinting to view pic)

Shiiiinyyyy!

 

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I'm resurrecting this older thread to ask if anyone has any strength data on any of the above mentioned glues or mixtures.

If a good welder using the right equipment welds apiece of steel pipe end to end the weld will be as strong as the original pipe.

My experimental weldwith a piece of 1-1/2" ABS pipe and yellow pipe cement was nowhere near as strong. The pipe snapped at the bond with a fraction of the original strength.

While the pipe cements may be OK for low strength applications it would be good to know the limitations. Pipe cement will be formulated to match the plastic but also have certain gap filling qualities and be resistant to temperature fluctuations.

If you read up on ABS plastic you will find that there are different formulations including fiber re-enforced. Each may have its ownspecial considerations.

 

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I have used this with great success. $7.00

 

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I don't know about yellow ABS cement but the old black gooey stuff does hold very well. I've never had a repair with the stuff fail. Does the yellow stuff soften the surface of the ABS it's applied to? The solvents in the black stuff do which results in more or less of a chemical weld.

 

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exavid wrote:

I don't know about yellow ABS cement but the old black gooey stuff does hold very well. I've never had a repair with the stuff fail. Does the yellow stuff soften the surface of the ABS it's applied to? The solvents in the black stuff do which results in more or less of a chemical weld.

The yellow stuff contains ketones which dissolve the ABS and would supposedly make a melted bond. My test is a piece of ABS pipe and I am gluing it end to end. The connection was reasonable but nowhere near the strength of the original pipe. I'm guessing about 20%.

The cement would have fillers to thicken it and the yellow colour may be a Canadian thing to make sure unglued joints are detected.

The cement would not have the same structural characteristics as the ABS. The pipe joint is a coupling with a large surface area and structural support. An improperly glued joint would probably only produce a small leak. With a bike, if a tab repair failed one could lose a $300 panel as it falls off and gets run over by a truck.


ABS formulas can vary as well. What is used for pipe fittings may be quite different from the formula used for bike panels.